Training - Strenght - <-- gulag-online --> Bouldern and Clean Climbing in Elbsandstone

Go to content

Main menu:

Strength training:

  Muscle training
  Pyramid training
  aerosolised training



Maximum force is called the greatest physical power needed for bouldering. It is dependent on the muscle cross section (construction of muscle fibers = muscle training) and intramuscular coordination (aerosolised training = improvement of muscle fibers).
There are three ways to improve your maximum strength.
1. The muscle training (preparation for the intramuscular training, low body load with high number of repetitions).
2. The intramuscular training (prerequisite is a muscle building for non-experienced).
3. The pyramid training is the transition of muscle building training to the intramuscular training.

Muscle training

+ Muscle growth can be reached with a body load of 40-80%

1. example:
My purpose is body burden to train with 80%.
I weigh 60 kg.
I can do a maximum of 1 pull-up (100%) with 55 kg of additional weight.
The total weight is so 115 kg.
multiplying 115 kg body burden by 80% and the result divided by 100% = 92 kg.
92 kg minus 60 kg (body weight) = 32 kg.
I so need to train to 32 kg of extra weight on
80% come to the body burden.    

2. example:
My partner would like to train with 40% body burden.
He weighs 85 kg.
He creates a maximum of 1 pull-up (100%) without additional weight.
85 kg multiplying body load by 40% and the result divided by 100% = 34 kg.
34 kg minus 85 kg (body weight) = minus 51 kg.
He must so with 51 kg relief train to come to body burden on 40%.
+ Number of repetitions: 5-15
+ a holding time of 5-20 seconds (static exercise)
+ 5-10 series
+ Break time = time between series: 2-5 minutes
+ 2-5 times a week
+ 3-10 weeks
+ Muscle growth = increase of body weight
+ possible climbing specific training    

Static exercises

+  Suspended exercises with different grip sizes with two hands or one  hand and holding (basic techniques intervention). It can be trained with  additional weights, if body weight is not sufficient. Otherwise, even a  relief is possible.
+ holding time: 5-20 seconds
+ 5-10 series
+ Break time: 2-5 minutes

positive - and negative dynamic

+  Pullups on the rod (Chin over the bar): (positive dynamically) attract,  block, slowly release the excess (negative dynamically), not hang out =  1 repeat. It can be trained with additional weights, if body weight is  not sufficient. Otherwise, even a relief is possible.
+ Number of repetitions: 5-15
+ 3-10 series
+ Break time: 2-5 minutes

positive - and negative dynamic access to the campus (with leg relief)

+  Example: secure it with two hands and simultaneous leg relief.  Keep  (fix) the 1. Ledge with two hands and dynamic further access   (positively) with both hands to the 2. Ledge (secure). Dynamic back attack (negative) with two hands to the 1. ledge (secure) = 2 repeats.
+ Benefits: exercise the dynamic, targeted intervention (coordination), build body tension, exercising the forearm muscles.
+ Number of repetitions: 5-15
+ 3-10 series
+ Break time: 2-5 minutes

climbing-specific exercises

+ climb up the wall to the point of physical exhaustion. 1 Climbing move = 1 repeat
+ Advantages: technique training, interaction between of different muscle groups, climbing-specific
+ holding time: 5-15 seconds
+ Number of repetitions: 5-15
+ 5-10 series (1 Series > 1 min.)
+ Break time: 2-5 minutes

static and dynamic training on the rope ladder

+  Hanging on the rope ladder. Example: Pulls to the left hand (fix the  rung = static), while the right hand presses, then continue to access  the right hand to the next rung (= dynamic), right hand pulls (fix the  rung = static), while the left hand presses, then further access of the  left hand to the next Lana (= dynamic) = 2 repeats.
+ Advantage:
Training coordination
+ Number of repetitions: 6-15
+ 3-6 series
+ Break time: 3-5 minutes

static and dynamic training on the campus

+  Example: with two hands on the 1.ledge fix and further access of the  left hand to the 2. ledge (dynamic), fix the left hand and right hand  access (secure).
Grabbing  back (negative) the left hand to the 1. Ledge (secure) and right hand  access on the left hand side (dynamically) = 2 repeats.
+ Benefits: exercise the dynamic, targeted grabbing (coordination), build body tension, exercising the muscles of the forearm
+ Number of repetitions: 5-15
+ 5-15 series
+ Break time: 2-5 minutes

Pyramid training


+ The pyramid training is the transition of muscle building training to the intramuscular training.
+ Training with a body load of 60% - 95%
+ Number of repetitions: 1-8
+ a holding time 1-10 seconds (static exercise)
+ 5-10 series
+ Break time = time between series: 2-5 minutes
+ 2-4 times a week
+ 1-4 weeks
+ possible climbing specific training




This also applies to the grip hold time.

aerosolised training

+ Aerosolised training (intramuscular coordination) is dependent of the muscle (muscle training) cross-section.
+ Training with a body load of 80% - > 100%
+ Number of repetitions: 1-8
+ holding time: 1-6 seconds
+ 3-10 series
+ Break time = time between series: 2-5 minutes
+ 1-4 times per week
+ 4-6 weeks
+ possible climbing specific training

Static

+ Suspended exercises with different grip sizes with two hands or one hand and holding.
It is trained with additional weights (if possible).
+ holding time: 1-6 seconds
+ 3-10 series
+ Break time: 2-5 minutes

positive - and negative dynamic

+  Pullups on the rod (Chin over the bar): tightening (positive  dynamically), block, slowly release the excess (negative dynamically),  not hang out = 1 Repetition.
It is trained with additional weights (if possible).
+ Number of repetitions: 1-6
+ 3-10 series
+ Break time: 2-5 minutes

positive - and negative dynamic access to the campus

+  Hanging with two hands without leg relief. Keep (fixing) the 1. Ledge with two hands and dynamic further access (positively) with two hands  to the 2nd, 3rd or 4. Ledge (secure).
dynamic back attack (negative) with two hands to the 1. Ledge (secure) = 2 repeats
+ Number of repetitions: 2-6
+ 3-6 series
+ Pause time: 2-5 minutes

Climbing-specific exercises

+ Bouldering wall, to sensory exhaustion. 1 climbing move = 1 repeat
+ Advantage:
Technology training,
Training of the muscles of the forearm,
Training of dynamics,
Training of coordination,
Training the body tension
+ holding time: 1-6 seconds
+ Number of repetitions: 1-8
+ 5-10 series (series 1 < 1 min.)
+ Break time: 3-5 minutes

Static and dynamic training on the campus

+ Hanging on the campus (without leg relief).
+ Advantage:
Training of the muscles of the forearm,
Training of dynamics,
Training of coordination,
Training the body voltage
+ Number of repetitions: 2-6
+ 3-6 series
+ Break time: 3-5 minutes

Static and dynamic training on the boulder wall without leg relief

+ Hanging on the boulder wall.
Example:
Attracts   the right hand (fix the hold = static), the left hand presses, then   further access of the left hand to the next hold (dynamically), left   hand draws (fix the hold = static), the right hand presses, then   continue repeating access the right hand to the next hold  (dynamic)=2. Repetition
+ Advantage:
keep different grip shapes,.
Training of dynamics,
Training of coordination,
Training the body voltage
+ holding time: 1-6 seconds
+ Number of repetitions: 2-6
+ 3-6 series
+ Break time: 3-5 minutes







 
Copyright _ gulag - online _ 2005 - 2017 _ All rights reserved
Back to content | Back to main menu