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The Odyssey to the archipelago


Fragrance flowers that autumn sun is shining - sweet, the blocks golden on.

I lie on the soft grass - it's warm.
My Bunny gives me a kiss, and we watch Michi when climbing.
He dances, floats and sings it.
Oh, what is that for a bird - a hummingbird.
What's he doing here? - and as a man with a network, he jumps after him.
The peace is destroyed, we have on - whether he catches him probably, or...

WAKE UP, HELLO, GET UP! Oh, my fright, today is you already tomorrow.
That was just a dream a terribly beautiful, and yet I want to stand up.
The weather is gloomy and cold, perfect for bouldering.
Coffee scent is in the air - mental leap over mental leap.
Mausi has prepared already the breakfast with egg.
I wash my face with cold water and look in the mirror, clearly too much smoked red puffy eyes - and the last beer was also not good.
The coffee will heal the wounds and so we sit at the table and let it taste us.
I look forward to the problem, which has still not been resolved.
For days, it concerns me, but the weather made a spanner in the.
Mausi is sitting at the coffee. I'm now packing the mats in the car.
Adjust only with effort in and we need to see that we have some space too.
Tetsi must also still and so is zick. Gas go, give.
1,2,3 speed, down, turn gas, tires screech, that's fun and also cheerfully.
Arrived at the rendezvous point, already Michi TEC wait we had arranged us a day in advance.
We put our luggage on the back and run the problem what I had already spoken in the place to the target, arrived, the situation was quite perfectly.
We exercise around, try out new moves. I've now well warm climbing and will try it once.
It is a beautiful line, a cracking track, diagonally from right to left.
13 moves on the finest rock. Yet once properly put the mats and you can start.
Michi and TEC save me, it's also a good thing, because the bounce is pretty hard despite protection.
The seat launch is easy for me, but upwards, it is harder.
The last train is the hardest of all and I fail at this turn.
So a trouble but also, why doesn't it? I just don't feel it.
B R E A K

Now it is Michi.
But he has problems with the high acceleration and gives up for now.
We just to smoke a cigarette and talk about issues that still stand, how you could solve them about problems in our country and around the world.
Not so much talking! Mausi said a power Word with us, or wanted to ask out just us?
Today I no longer believe that, because she's pretty tired.
I'm ready to go and rub the hands with a mix of my a, pretty corrosive stuff, but good.
Heh, beware, there's something - no, someone's coming!
Oh you scare, these are the Greens, who have got what, someone must be us galvanized nothing out.
Stuff in the bag, mat together and going on. Come on, come on, come on faster.
We run like the wild through the Woods, over trees, stones, through the water.
That we don't like at all, only Tetzi will feel like on the hunt.
Car arrived at - everything inside and out.
We drove to the nearest coffee and had a rest from the rush.
Once again got lucky, said Macharia. You will feel like a criminal, while we do anyone anything, only our joy.
The mentioned problem I failed again and am therefore a little sad, but intend to try it again next weekend, then it should work now - hopefully! Now we go in another and there we let it RIP so correctly!
A new game, a new happiness.

HELLO, WAKE UP, HELLO! What is that, a dream, or escape?


Sven Scholz


The history of the Bouldering and the utensils (excerpt).


As a separate branch of the climbing, bouldering, there is since the beginning of the 20th century.

Two areas of development are well known:
To the first Fontainebleau (forest area around the town, Southeast of Paris) and the United States.
Fontainebleau bouldering began as a form of training for the Parisian alpinists, who regularly arrived at the weekend.
But some time later they realized that it was something in itself.
One equating the movements and the trains on the blocks with climbing a mountain.
It was no longer the training for the Alps, but for its own sake.
Many Boulder were opened and there was a Boulderparcour (combining several Boulder) after another.
This Boulder Community is one of the most famous in the world today.
Some of the famous climbers are Pierre alone (inventor of the canvas shoe with rubbery sole), Fred Bernick (1947: first Boulderparcour), Michel Libert (1960: first 7a Boulder, L ' abattoir), Jacky Godoffe (1984: first 8a Boulder, C' était demain) and Jean Pierre Bouvier (1980: opening of Traverses).
It looked somewhat different in the United States.
Bouldering for its own sake on a handful of climbers was limited there.
The most famous bouldering is John Gill.
He opened the first Boulder early 50s, performed the first dynamic moves and used magnesia for the first time.
He brought his enormous power repertoire from the artistic gymnastics.
So, he mastered the head cross the butterfly mount, one-finger and one-armed Pullups and the one-armed hanging scale. John Gill bouldering at first only for its own sake.
Only years later its problems were being reviewed.
Now you could only tell he physically and mentally already ahead was how far.
Him is still called the 'father of the Bouldering'.
Bouldering became really popular then in the 90's.
For example by the English Jerry Moffat and Ben Moon, the Swiss Fred Nicole, the Austrians Klem Loskot, the German Toni Lamprecht and the American Chris Sharma.
Right now, at the beginning of the 21st century, increasing the number of tough issues.
An important aspect is also the improvement of the equipment (shoes, Crashpads,...). Only through innovation can and a development could take place.
An essential tool is the climbing shoe.
There, too, there are several places of origin.
At the end of the 19th century, Oscar Schuster brought the usual for a long time in the high mountains climbing shoe, "the Roofer shoe" (Canvas shoe with hemp sole).
Thus, the old "nail shoe" was replaced.
Now, turning to the heavier climbing (walls and cracks) and renounced the artificially created kicks.
It was with one of the crucial steps in the climbing history of the Elbsandstone mountains (refer to "Cradle of free climbing" on page 131).
Also in Fountainebleau, you climbed initially with hobnailed boots.
A short time later followed the linen shoes 'Espadrilles'.
In the 30s the "PA's", a climbing shoe, developed by Pierre Allain follow.
It was a linen shoes with a rubber-like sole.
The "EB's", a shoe from Ellis Brigham (England) came in the 70s.
The climbing shoes improved from year to year, firms like Boréal (friction sole 'Fire')... they brought on the market.
To avoid greater injury in a bounce in bouldering, thoughts turned over appropriate jump mats. The Yosemite Valley is the birthplace of these mats.
Here we used long old discarded mattresses.
At the end of the 80's Fred Nakovic built the first "Crashpad," it's a combination of foam and carpet, after he himself at the bouldering in Hueco tanks the feet during the take-off had sprained.
The idea was brilliant and thus it was not long until the Crashpads were manufactured.
The first use of magnesia is on the account of John Gill (mid of 50's).
He used it for his unit exercises and thus it was a small step of the magnesia on the rock to try out.
All these pieces of equipment have become solids in bouldering.
It could and can take place only an evolution in climbing if she can practically be exercised.


Sven Scholz


Service report

It was so decided the concert to go to, but Jrtfy Tkmpb is the most popular band of the Ukraine - at least in this country.

The card cost 15 Hrivna, what with a Euro rate of 5,13.... you can calculate it Yes.
Now  that the card was bought a few days in advance and you no longer looked  with sheer anticipation to the date, it moved real Ukrainian rock in  the direction of Velotrek Friday evening with hot desire.
At  some point but Christian, a black braid and Leipzig with Gestapo  noticed coat that's here, actually should be teeming with just in front  of one such event, Ukrainians - a probing look at the concert ticket  however clarified this strange circumstance: the concert is on Saturday!
But soon, the worry about was replaced by the now even more protracted anticipation.
So it was decided to fill the evening at home with a bottle of horilka.
But  now, it finally happened: Saturday night! 4 German companions entered  only through the dreads of Ivy in the mass make up this huge sports  facility wasteland, where it probably hot must have gone here during  Soviet times.
Today  but the stadium just in front of him is crumbling, all sorts of Greens  sprouting from every crevice, and the stairs through which this heavy  mass gen Velotrek push, threaten under the load to break.
It  is noticeably close for our friends, since the amount towards  wedge-shaped flows the right large building in which this slightly  ramshackle Racecourse is located.
And  just in this stifling thread he is sees suddenly clearly unwell,  because a certain DeeDoubleU about twenty uniformed men, which, at the  entrance station, know no mercy in Backpack control.
Now, it's usually not that bad, you know in a sense also from Germany.
But  with the PitBulls of the Jxjujyf, a black-clad and prepare private  police to do anything, you want to avoid but rather each conflict since  it is able to bring hardly a Ukrainian word out of his mouth.
But  why is DoubleU hide he has something about a few beer or vodka on once  so pale, in his backpack, maybe? No, it was worse still to a lot!
Before  met our heroes in the city centre, together gen Velotrek were a well  known us Dauersmoker had something else in mind: ruthless and determined  to do anything he in the direction of Wulitsa Samarstiniwska, through  his district India in the North, actually named Samarstiniw, strode but  India called as various "narcotics" by the Gypsies also there are...  brewed
Well,  anyway, he ran for quite a while, but he knew quite exactly where he  had only one goal, a spot that he had discovered a few days before  fetching water (here be noted that DoubleU is quite official in Lviv!).  In any case, was a magnificent hemp plant, who totally innocent bent  over a garden fence and hang their fat butts take the footpath left -  great! So it was how it had to come, and his Backpack, DoubleU packed  full with sticky fingers. The fresh grass while in a plastic bag packed,  moved here a tell-tale plume behind anyway...
Now  might be settled, which is why our friend was so restless, not just  squeamish to deal in the Ukraine with one, moreover, if it was such a  disastrous amount.
A  brief thought to hide the hot commodity, somewhere in the area came too  late and was immediately discarded, it had become impossible now to  tearsnote so out of this suffocating crowd he had to so add his fate.
Karolin,  Jakob also, even Christian, even without his backpack filled with beer  open to! Was it a chance would he can so easily pass, show only his card  and then promptly get lost from the entrance? Excluded!
Nevertheless  DoubleU tried to act, so nondescript and unaffected as possible growled  the Pitbull something Ukrainian and showed clear and of course on the  corpus delicti.
Then  our unfortunate hero took off the smelly backpack, opened it seemingly  confident (he had so no drinks), and now looked into both, the Pitbull,  and our friend, together holding the backpack, just in these...
Now  there are two possibilities: either, this not sympathetic Cabinet has a  defective sense of smell, or but our hero plays Queen in the Ukrainian  prison just involuntarily - we hope for the best!

by Daniel


Food for thought

Where to begin with so much bigotry?

Sorry truly, so having to say this, but the Saxon Switzerland is a playground of outright selfish and pseudo moralists. This also again, I want to make some designs however you offended and will withdraw without rethinking the critique.
Climbing in Saxony, I think of it as getting a picture comes to mind me: A big mouth-leader is back on solid ground after consummate mentally difficult tour and trumpet his incredible feat, supported by his subsequent trail er crowd into the wide world.
That was all on climbing for the day but then.
Looking scornfully to the nearby climbing in the XC.
"You can see that yet, he has rehearsed the tour. "After I try thousand times could this also!"
You couldn't! What many climbers forget is that a damn hard training belongs to the heavy climbing.
With steel-strong nerves you can specify just fine in front of some people, but this one is not better.
A post titled "Redpoint climb", was actually just to see the that the authors are apparently still never really hard climbed redpoint was in the last newsletter.
It is a world of difference between a "from bolt to bolt" - ascent of the "Hohlspiegels" or a RP - ascent.
The Saxon climbing too often leads to the level loose high hangers in a tour.
The endless complaints that a lot of Toproper blocking the way, I can only argue that it happens more that a traditional Pack infinitely time consuming high rests is a way.
I suggest a try here: ask the Toproper whether they can pull it off just the rope and the tour climb you can be.
No one has denied this request me, neither here nor in one of these terrible sport climbing areas.
An another keyword is thrown in this country like in the area: "consume".
Anyone who is not agree with the rules here, immediately falls under the category of "consuming mediocrity".
At this point a heartfelt thank you to Thomas Böhmer, were to remove its article just like Nice formulations.
Why am I a pleasure incompetent Abhaker only because I prefer the well secured climbing the dangerous?
At this point lacks any logic.
Another point is the clamping of the traditions.
These were better than the regulations of other areas something very special and infinity.
Maybe it's time to reconsider whether it isn't overrated as Saxon climbers.
The hardest treks of psycho is not climbed in Saxony, but in England.
The most difficult solos climbed not a Saxon, but a Frenchman.
The best climbers come from all over the world, not only from Saxony.
The mediocrity is at home with us.
However, I have to say anything, but it is always amazing how often people boast, Saxon climbers to be "".
What's so special about it?
Yet a further allegation, I want to take the wind out of the sails.
Quite often I hear, you must protect the mountain from too large crowds, because good backup means many visitors, and many visitors mean trouble in the National Park.
Don't worry, the Saxon Switzerland is less interesting than you might think for a climbing holiday.
I have met rarely anyone who necessarily here wanted to climb.
Rather say that here everything is too cluttered, towards the rocks are too far, the rock to brittle, the weather is too fickle and the density of good tours is also too low.
Rather, I win the feeling that one has before that it scares the hell out that difficulties are devalued and own heroics repeated times along the way as by others in the course of time.
Maybe it happens is but also to silly to boast if it has previously seen with my own eyes, to which small pile of MOSS here struggling and finest massive along busy routes in perpetual virginity left to languish in foreign company of its Summit. You could make so many assumptions, that me to just invade father Briest's words: "It is a broad field..."
What do I want to achieve? I hope that slowly emerges a normal relationship between traditional and sports climbers.
Climber: It's not a brainless in to out using mob or a riotous of profile-addicted Fitneß types.
These are people who simply go with a different motivation for climbing and need just a psycho kick.
Also they can unfold freely in our mountains.
As always, there are two opinions on a topic, and it's time, that in this country a second opinion can be considered and not, as it was the case after my last letter, that I will pointed out, need somewhere to go, if you don't like me.
The German custom to throw out dissenters, should actually belong to the past.


Jens Haberkern



Unusual, but still normal ...

23. January 2002 this time came the ice eating heat collapse in January.

An exchange of emotions. Although the fireplaces and Summit heads still wet and Loulan goods, could we already after a few days in selected areas of the rock our natural urge to move continue to live out. The sandstone invites us to climb, he remains the mirror of our joy and sometimes our suffering. The game has not changed. Every season, go apparently or actually peculiar types through the forest and looking for known or unknown possibilities on blocks and rock surfaces. Free of the rope and any equipment, some in the physical expression of their needs will find the freedom that they lack in the cities. And other finally joy, always pushing the limits of their possibilities. There is talk of "Bouldering". This term stands for cable-free climbing to two to 10 metres high blocks and rock sections. As part of the climbing sport has more than a hundred years the youthful get it and spreads around the world. It was born in France, on the blocks of sandstone from Fontainebleau, is known to us in the Elbsandstone at least ninety years and was primarily used as a popular form of training. The Frenchman Jacky Godoffe, a supporter of this movement, said: "it is more than a simple sports or a technique, it is an art - finding tiny breakpoints. You gives you relaxation and at the same time puts the player into a frenzy." Or otherwise, John Gill (Pioneer of Bouldering/United States): "The bouldering is quite a sort of fountain of the romantic appearance of the rock climbing." Today we were again out on the rocks in the forest, a colorful bunch of young and old, from the beginner to the top climber, and all they share this love. For example, the Daredevil were you 'The K question', and others satisfied with the start "Trout"... with the aim to decode the hidden message of the rock surface with imaginative movements. To the delight, challenge, from which drive – the Elbsandstone mountains enables us in unique way to exercise a wide range of outdoor sports. In nature, and with her, in a partnership which destroyed anything, all of us but infinitely gifted. In its entirety, the mountain sports creates the possibility of himself as part of nature to experience, to deal with itself within its varied form its operators. Highest joy learns the seeker within this new space created, thereby experiencing a piece of quality of life, which is threatened by increasing regulation and uniforms.


by B. Arnold


Monkey dance

At home, we had heard that monkey climbing on this rock, and now we were naturally curious, what do the guys at dynamics and foot technique.

We discovered a rock on which every evening just before sunset gathered.
During the day they worked mostly with tourists, but an hour before darkness, shortly before the bed rest, they felt apparently inspired a virtuoso solo - and Boulder - session.
For us, what we were allowed to watch, was unique! -ZEN! (Watch - relax - think): the true masters of the climbing even our Grandmaster Jerry Moffatt made the miserable Bungler! Alone, witness of this to be Boulder - ten-minute presentation was worth, to undertake the long journey.
There were handleless overhangs with double dynamos of the triple (!) Body length just skipped across and then einfingrig through supported upwards.
Ordinary for these guys everyday - for us maybe movers from the future of climbing!
A monkey mother skipped an over five meters wide Gorge around 15 metres above sea level with her baby compounded tight belly and landed on a finger bar in vertical wall locker completed the ascent.
The whole drift of the apes is carried out solely for the purpose of self from the game shoot out-without the lure of the famous banana! Solo in the upper 9. Difficulty to hunt to each other through the wall.
We had a wonderful finger crack near the village discovered a few days before, approximately 10 meters, in difficulty 7B+, which we got through by means of rope.
This evening we returned bananas and hoping to make, monkeys with a backpack load.
Our plan was to place banana pieces to explore the terminals of the apes along the crack.
We had to wait until the bouldering team arrived.
During me snatched a lone from behind a bunch of bananas, others have been busy our tear off to climb upside down and to eat the banana pieces - just looking at the toes hanging -.
When everything was cleared, some of the monkeys decided to climb the right (and beyond human metrics) overhang directly.
It was a great experience to see that they were moving like ourselves that they were also pumped and tired, she sounded out their personal limits and had fun doing it, that they off again climbed from precarious positions and shook off the arms that regenerated - we believed even to realize that climbing movements were anticipated.
A baby monkey tried desperately to emulate the other and to climb the first trains of the overhang.
Again and again it tried again, again and again it crashed.
I bet that it was looking at the end for an excuse - due to low range...


Excerpt from bouldering in South India by Kurt Albert


Elbsandstone

Climbing is like a drug, of which you weren't coming off.

You is driving you around the world in search of new material, of new verticals.
You are you doing in the heat and in the cold, only the wall is important, the weather remains secondary.
Of course a blue sky would rather, as I wander in thought through a rain forest.
But bad weather sometimes has its appeal, transformed the landscape through its cold and damp fog in a grimly beautiful fairy tale world.
Bizarre and scary the contours of the sandstone towers loom, end gorges in the grey nothing.
My gaze moves up at the edges and pillars, I remember the last few days, trying to draw lines in the walls.
A few days ago, I was up there, just because, where now a drop on the rock refuses to give in to gravity, so long to him a breath of wind or its weight does not from the wall.
I had to fight right there on the edge of now a squall effortlessly pulls off a series of drops with the "drop off".
How easy it can shake off my friends and me! Matt shines the rock, by braiding rainwater in small Rivulets which paves the way to below.
Parallels to my sports crowd to me.
Although I have a degree of control, but ultimately, I feel like the water drops the mercy of nature.
I imagine though, the risks with my hands and feet, to be able to influence, but only up to a certain limit with power and faster response.
If I exceed them, everything from the benevolence of nature depends on.
Why do out I always again the wind, the characteristics of the rocks and the gravity like a small drop of water? Maybe it's fear of crippling security of everyday life and precomputed day procedures, which can increasingly break me out and take on the challenge of nature.
A small branch breaks off, falls into a puddle and ripping the mirror-like surface.
Somehow, I see myself at my sport in such a mirror, a volatile image, that any moment can break.
How scared was I to fall back before the first ring hook on the floor! If a piece of sandstone would be canceled on a handle, I can avoid a crash.
Sure, atop this fear turns into the reward of a deep sense of happiness.
But that lasts not long.
If I'm up, I'm the next wall in thoughts on the foot.
On my laurels to rest me, for I am now really too young.


Excerpt from Rocks-around the world
by Stefan Glowacz and Uli Wiesmeier




No bullying

It is Sunday.

We are soon on the road, to take advantage of the cool of the morning soon Sun hot wall.
Us is cooling but not more, because our pace is taut and
the backpacks, due to all kinds of necessary iron and tool are stately weight.
The Forest Hill, the steep wooden staircase... we're slowing down.
It's not the effort, no, we have arrived.
These  last few meters are the same for all, which are carried or driven to  the Höllenhund experience hunger, conquest urge and need for broadcast.
The same - not for the sweaty forehead, but due to the wall above the head.
Here, the preemptive expectations have already intertwined with the rock.
A  line is still untouched! The narrow, red yellow mottled strip at the  left edge in addition to the characteristic of the Valley wall,  arch-shaped overhang!
When Günter, Gisbert and I climbed in 1977 "Über die Hundenase", we saved this wall formation.
The ribs start at that time met our overall understanding.
And today?
This towel width: A small box for farmers who could offer services in the full.
Why nonetheless this enthusiasm?
You is rooted in the search for harmonious movement sequences, which allows us to actually experience in the difficult ease.
It is the leap so, causes the changes apparently fixed notions.
Should  our performances today and here meet, this rural edge trim receives a  name that joins to the feel of almost weightless ease and ALZA communication.
The intrigue game when using the so important career in social, so economic and political life, is called bullying, these days a Fashion concept.
While other people are hampered in malicious intent and to their advantage.
Worse still, Evil itself is not to recognize.
It uses this "game" the ignorant crowd, which, once envied on, is to the mob.
A "social game" of the human race, which permanently will benefit anyone, but all sick and sicker makes - thus "no bullying".
Motivation and solid base, potatoes and natural fertilizers - earnings on a small field.
The being here fills the day.
Excited  about the arrangement of the rock structures and the happy figures when  the necessary backup rings, we stop already at noon, above where the  "Hundenase" meets the "Südwestkante", the tour.
In the evening, while the reason refills with pleasant coolness, Michi and I climb the mandatory RP ascent.
Of course ...or not so self-evident?
...no bullying!


Excerpt from Zwischen Schneckenhaus und Dom (Between the shell and dome)
by Bernd Arnold










 
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