History - Present - <-- gulag-online --> Bouldern and Clean Climbing in Elbsandstone

Go to content

Main menu:

Present

The question for the further development of the Elbsandstone climbing is currently in a sharpness represents, which historically have not been there: when everything changes, the Saxon tradition can remain as it is? «That many in the Elbsandstone mountains climb for years and living in the tradition, will ask: "why not? «Includes - definition restrictions, and these not encounter but the rules and regulations for all climbers love. «It starts with some already with a fundamental rejection of usual rules:» an area where one requires me, what I have to do, I don't care! «This, and so you can get to hear when talking to foreign climbers on the Elbsandstone mountains.»

Resentment against each rule, however, is more common: rely on node loops it could get, if you are not exactly familiar, in outrageous situations; without magnesia, you could climb difficult routes only in dry weather conditions in the spring or autumn etc. Climbers who are interested in redpoint and Onsight ascents, complain that the paths are often poorly decorated for a trapdoor in a move, rings sometimes difficult to mount and hard to push node loops quickly frustrate a step-through attempt. Potential first ascent see depending on the temperament - restricted by  the limitation to Summit, the bolt distances, the Skyhook prohibition and prohibition to set up from above. (Skyhook - is using now was allowed but ca. 20 years illegally used) * missing freedom of movement before the turn has concealed this potential for conflict, but now the consequences are apparent: talented Elbe sandstone climbers seek their goals in other climbing areas, the development of Elbe sandstone climbing stagnates.
Although the Elbe sandstone mountains beyond Europe is one of the world's best climbing areas, is the interest of the West and-Europäischen hordes of climbers.
Top climbers who otherwise despise no climbing treats of the Earth, only a very few find their way to Saxony. «One could counter all these groups:» well, and? These are reasons to change something? Finally, the Elbsandstone climbing a mountain climbing is to look at, and it had to do ever more with adventure as only with strength and gymnastics! But what does such an attitude as a result?
To paint a dramatic picture: there is the danger that the climbing in one of the world's best areas to a life on the edge of the climbing world. Routes, sounding names also any West German climbers knew some time ago, only "locals" and a few visitors are common; Ways which, each in its time been milestones of climbing, Dawn out on... What's climbing history, if it is not traced by the now climbing people? Although the focus of the climbing world has turned already away in the 1980s by the Elbsandstone mountains, as in Western areas the difficulty marks were set higher and higher, however, with the present freedom of movement, the Elbsandstone mountains could enjoy a Renaissance.
What does it take to do this?
The answer is simple: Redpoint kind paths in high levels of difficulty pull top climber, backup-friendly ways of medium difficulty the pleasure and recreational climbers.
The conditions are also:; there's ways that meet these criteria, and the potential for more such way to open, is available.
But can be spoken by Saxon tradition?

What is tradition? Tradition, come here, custom, habit.

Is not mourning the loss of the ashes, but the pass of the fire.

Sporting achievements should be considered therefore never completely detached from those of the ancients.*

When many Saxons, I see the fear: "if we give in to just one iota, then Saxony mountain climbing is done, then there are rings in the distance, then the rocks are soon white powdered of magnesia, then....
Also the special features and the history of the Saxon climbing seem to be an essential part of the self-consciousness of some climber: no matter what difficulty to move, alone highlights the fact, being Elbsandstone climbers, one from the crowd of climbers.
Changes the tradition with this setting the own identity put on stake. The historical credit to you know to support may lead to manners in conflicts elsewhere as not would carried out: ugly and disgraceful scenes can take place, if someone with the use of magnesia is caught, and the night and fog actions, where, unloved eyelets are removed from trails, speak for themselves.
Seen from outside, many such reactions seem as excessive, and one wonders why the backbone of a hundred year history of climbing in a field of 14 000 pathways does not lead to more serenity in these matters.
I can't see how the Saxon tradition could perish as long as the existing paths remain untouched and preserves the previously used backup material: here are adventure, for which a climbing life is never sufficient. But also a scattered subsequent hardening existing channels would not kill the tradition, but on the contrary make alive: for what remains of a way not be scrambling is?
The performance of the initial loading along appreciate also the, which can mount a subsequently proposed ring. Also, I think that a leap of faith in other (young, foreign, etc.) Climbers in the long term would not necessarily disappointed: the pendulum may now beating towards good safe sport climbing routes, will again return commute - and, who knows, maybe exist in a few years well-hedged sport climbing routes and adventure routes together peacefully? There are areas such as in England, the United States), which have already realized this compromise without having their independence or their Nimbus would be looted the classic lines. The question remains after the style of the first ascents.
Without a doubt: The Saxon tradition has produced unique climbing routes as well as helped that there is still much potential for rock. This chapter must be dealt with carefully.
Today, the idea of the red point is established, and on-sight inspections are the challenge for the climbers.
Both is also the basic idea of the Saxon tradition, the idea of free climbing to the next.
Against this background, it is hard to see what bolt distances have to do with free climbing.
Rather, this rule contains only a secondary aspect: the way to can be not technically climbed.
Definition free climbing: alone used to overcome gravity while climbing from the given rock, natural breakpoints, such as handles, kicks, cracks etc.
To use any artificial means, such as rope, hooks or chocks, active movement or just to rest, so you have of artificial climbing (Sportklettern Heute, Güllich and Kubin) to speak.
A climbing route would be a way (and not merely a project), then when the ascent in the style of the redpoint is done, this would of course changes in the initial ascent style result: first ascent would so going to beat bolts to hang well being (that can mean however that they have proper spacing).
Also, they would think about if not maybe a bolt should be beaten instead of a difficult-to-be (and potentially unsafe) node loop.
Although no rule-true paths would be created under certain circumstances, but there were ways that perhaps even closer would be the core of the Saxon tradition.
And - spin on the idea - accepted high difficulty and good protection of such new way would attract climbers from all over the world, including some who would be interested in also for classical channels found is sure: the reputation of the Saxon climbing would grow and not disappear. Finally, it can be asked also whether in some cases a set up from above is to advocate.
Of course: Who will decide the case?
It would be ideal if a wider exchange of views was the forward - the place for the climbers not (not only in Saxony), even though the climbing routes include everyone and anyone.
Is this way on the other hand something won, basically prohibits? «The» impossible «is this Yes not murdered: it plugs into the Velcro renewable of the way, not in the ring.»
Also here can be referenced in any case, the example other climbing areas, where both styles (in fact, if not always harmonious) exist side by side.
Finally, the question of the solid walls.
To disable all massive conservation reasons, but at the same time to open all Summit climbing, can neither the environmentalists nor the climbers finally satisfy: the loss of insignificant Summit, in a secluded base is low for the climbers, the profit for the conservation of high.
Conversely, it behaves with solid walls in busy tourist areas.
Movement on this issue could lead to wonderful new ways without some protection Summit. But there is of course the danger that the climbers as a group without lobby lose more during a discussion about closures and openings, as they win.
Here, much of it will depend to what extent the national park management to appreciate the importance of Elbsandstone climbing white. The Saxon tradition anyway, will not die so long as people understand them climbing. So much history is written in these rocks may be thinking with composure about changes: the cliffs offer space, to meet different needs, if only the hearts of the people offer him!


Martin Schwiersch



The rules of the game of the sportclimbing


Any sport that lives directly or indirectly from the performance comparison and is driven forward by him, requires objective criteria for measuring performance, as well as clear, transparent rules that allow the comparison. In rock climbing, there are sports, but not the officials who set the rules and formulate, but the active climber himself, in contrast to most other. This makes the sport climbing so alive and allows orientation of the regulations to the current practice, which can not be determined from the green table.
So many aspects in the rules of the game have shifted over the past years in sport climbing, new priorities were set, rock climbing to new limits driving performance sport through their practice and their orientation on the current level of performance. Which all writing to bridge between the different games and styles beats the definition of free climbing. This definition also includes that a rope length always so you have to climb on a move, without resting on any fixed points (Sportklettern Heute, Güllich and Kubin).


* Note from the webmaster









 
Copyright _ gulag - online _ 2005 - 2017 _ All rights reserved
Back to content | Back to main menu