The question for the
further development of the Elbsandstone climbing is currently in a
sharpness represents, which historically have not been there: when
everything changes, the Saxon tradition can remain as it is? «That many
in the Elbsandstone mountains climb for years and living in the
tradition, will ask: "why not? «Includes - definition restrictions, and
these not encounter but the rules and regulations for all climbers love.
«It starts with some already with a fundamental rejection of usual
rules:» an area where one requires me, what I have to do, I don't care!
«This, and so you can get to hear when talking to foreign climbers on
the Elbsandstone mountains.»
against each rule, however, is more common: rely on node loops it could
get, if you are not exactly familiar, in outrageous situations; without
magnesia, you could climb difficult routes only in dry weather
conditions in the spring or autumn etc. Climbers who are interested in
redpoint and Onsight ascents, complain that the paths are often poorly
decorated for a trapdoor in a move, rings sometimes difficult to mount
and hard to push node loops quickly frustrate a step-through attempt.
Potential first ascent see depending on the temperament - restricted by
the limitation to Summit, the bolt distances, the Skyhook prohibition
and prohibition to set up from above. (Skyhook - is using now was
allowed but ca. 20 years illegally used) * missing freedom of movement
before the turn has concealed this potential for conflict, but now the
consequences are apparent: talented Elbe sandstone climbers seek their
goals in other climbing areas, the development of Elbe sandstone
the Elbe sandstone mountains beyond Europe is one of the world's best
climbing areas, is the interest of the West and-Europäischen hordes of
climbers who otherwise despise no climbing treats of the Earth, only a
very few find their way to Saxony. «One could counter all these groups:»
well, and? These are reasons to change something? Finally, the
Elbsandstone climbing a mountain climbing is to look at, and it had to
do ever more with adventure as only with strength and gymnastics! But
what does such an attitude as a result?
paint a dramatic picture: there is the danger that the climbing in one
of the world's best areas to a life on the edge of the climbing world.
Routes, sounding names also any West German climbers knew some time ago,
only "locals" and a few visitors are common; Ways which, each in its
time been milestones of climbing, Dawn out on... What's climbing
history, if it is not traced by the now climbing people? Although
the focus of the climbing world has turned already away in the 1980s by
the Elbsandstone mountains, as in Western areas the difficulty marks
were set higher and higher, however, with the present freedom of
movement, the Elbsandstone mountains could enjoy a Renaissance.
What does it take to do this?
answer is simple: Redpoint kind paths in high levels of difficulty pull
top climber, backup-friendly ways of medium difficulty the pleasure and
The conditions are also:; there's ways that meet these criteria, and the potential for more such way to open, is available.
But can be spoken by Saxon tradition?
What is tradition? Tradition, come here, custom, habit.
Is not mourning the loss of the ashes, but the pass of the fire.
Sporting achievements should be considered therefore never completely detached from those of the ancients.*
When many Saxons,
I see the fear: "if we give in to just one iota, then Saxony mountain
climbing is done, then there are rings in the distance, then the rocks
are soon white powdered of magnesia, then....
the special features and the history of the Saxon climbing seem to be
an essential part of the self-consciousness of some climber: no matter
what difficulty to move, alone highlights the fact, being Elbsandstone
climbers, one from the crowd of climbers.
the tradition with this setting the own identity put on stake. The
historical credit to you know to support may lead to manners in
conflicts elsewhere as not would carried out: ugly and disgraceful
scenes can take place, if someone with the use of magnesia is caught,
and the night and fog actions, where, unloved eyelets are removed from
trails, speak for themselves.
from outside, many such reactions seem as excessive, and one wonders
why the backbone of a hundred year history of climbing in a field of 14
000 pathways does not lead to more serenity in these matters.
can't see how the Saxon tradition could perish as long as the existing
paths remain untouched and preserves the previously used backup
material: here are adventure, for which a climbing life is never
sufficient. But also a scattered subsequent hardening existing channels
would not kill the tradition, but on the contrary make alive: for what
remains of a way not be scrambling is?
performance of the initial loading along appreciate also the, which can
mount a subsequently proposed ring. Also, I think that a leap of faith
in other (young, foreign, etc.) Climbers in the long term would not
necessarily disappointed: the pendulum may now beating towards good safe
sport climbing routes, will again return commute - and, who knows,
maybe exist in a few years well-hedged sport climbing routes and
adventure routes together peacefully? There are areas such as in
England, the United States), which have already realized this compromise
without having their independence or their Nimbus would be looted the
classic lines. The question remains after the style of the first
a doubt: The Saxon tradition has produced unique climbing routes as
well as helped that there is still much potential for rock. This chapter
must be dealt with carefully.
Today, the idea of the red point is established, and on-sight inspections are the challenge for the climbers.
Both is also the basic idea of the Saxon tradition, the idea of free climbing to the next.
Against this background, it is hard to see what bolt distances have to do with free climbing.
Rather, this rule contains only a secondary aspect: the way to can be not technically climbed.
Definition free climbing: alone used to overcome gravity while climbing from the given rock, natural breakpoints, such as handles, kicks, cracks etc.
To use any artificial means, such as rope, hooks or chocks, active movement or just to rest, so you have of artificial climbing (Sportklettern Heute, Güllich and Kubin) to speak.
A climbing route
would be a way (and not merely a project), then when the ascent in the
style of the redpoint is done, this would of course changes in the
initial ascent style result: first ascent would so going to beat bolts
to hang well being (that can mean however that they have proper
they would think about if not maybe a bolt should be beaten instead of a
difficult-to-be (and potentially unsafe) node loop.
no rule-true paths would be created under certain circumstances, but
there were ways that perhaps even closer would be the core of the Saxon
- spin on the idea - accepted high difficulty and good protection of
such new way would attract climbers from all over the world, including
some who would be interested in also for classical channels found is
sure: the reputation of the Saxon climbing would grow and not disappear.
Finally, it can be asked also whether in some cases a set up from above
is to advocate.
Of course: Who will decide the case?
would be ideal if a wider exchange of views was the forward - the place
for the climbers not (not only in Saxony), even though the climbing
routes include everyone and anyone.
this way on the other hand something won, basically prohibits? «The»
impossible «is this Yes not murdered: it plugs into the Velcro renewable
of the way, not in the ring.»
here can be referenced in any case, the example other climbing areas,
where both styles (in fact, if not always harmonious) exist side by
Finally, the question of the solid walls.
disable all massive conservation reasons, but at the same time to open
all Summit climbing, can neither the environmentalists nor the climbers
finally satisfy: the loss of insignificant Summit, in a secluded base is
low for the climbers, the profit for the conservation of high.
Conversely, it behaves with solid walls in busy tourist areas.
on this issue could lead to wonderful new ways without some protection
Summit. But there is of course the danger that the climbers as a group
without lobby lose more during a discussion about closures and openings,
as they win.
much of it will depend to what extent the national park management to
appreciate the importance of Elbsandstone climbing white. The Saxon
tradition anyway, will not die so long as people understand them
climbing. So much history is written in these rocks may be thinking with
composure about changes: the cliffs offer space, to meet different
needs, if only the hearts of the people offer him!
The rules of the game of the sportclimbing
sport that lives directly or indirectly from the performance comparison
and is driven forward by him, requires objective criteria for measuring
performance, as well as clear, transparent rules that allow the
comparison. In rock climbing, there are sports, but not the officials
who set the rules and formulate, but the active climber himself, in
contrast to most other. This makes the sport climbing so alive and
allows orientation of the regulations to the current practice, which can
not be determined from the green table.
many aspects in the rules of the game have shifted over the past years
in sport climbing, new priorities were set, rock climbing to new limits
driving performance sport through their practice and their orientation
on the current level of performance. Which all writing to bridge between
the different games and styles beats the definition of free climbing.
This definition also includes that a rope length always so you have to
climb on a move, without resting on any fixed points (Sportklettern
Heute, Güllich and Kubin).
* Note from the webmaster