The birthplace of free climbing.
there are almost 150 years that rock be here climbed in the Elbsandstone mountains for sporting reasons. In March 1864, there were Schandauer gymnasts, who moved the Falkenstein, the most striking rock formations in this landscape, to tackle. For her, by Adventure and joy of versatile nature exercise do worn however they used tools such as Dastel tree and wood spreader.
The conscious abandonment of first goes back to the year 1874 and the ascent of the Mönchsteins on any artificial AIDS. At this ascent, how of a climbing - climbing to the climbing will was recognized as essential.
Rock climbing in the broad, as it is operated by people of all ages to the present, was a child of the bourgeois epoch.
Around 1890, this activity learned the athletic cut.
For this are mainly the actions of Oscar Schuster and his circle of friends.
You entered for sports climbing and conducted their tours, among others the way of Schuster at the Falkenstein (III) and the south wall of the Meurertur (IV), without artificial AIDS.
Oscar Schuster it was who 1897 was the first, initially private scale of difficulty (at that time still to III).
He was also introduced the climbing shoe with a hemp sole in Saxony.
The step to the autonomous Saxon rock-climbing was in 1913 by Rudolf Fehrmann.
It was it possible to build on the work of Oscar Schuster immediately.
Subsequently further climbing sports development in Saxony is quite similar to a relay race, where the staff has been passed from one generation to another.
in 1906 for the first time the difficulty VI (UIAA) at the Teufelsturm by O.P.Smith and friends, 1910 of the difficulty VI+ (UIAA) at the Kreuzturm by M. Matthew, 1918 of the degree VII- (UIAA) at the Wilder Kopf by E. Strubich, 1921 of the difficulty VII (UIAA) at the Rauschentorwächter by O. Kunis and 1922 in the Hauptwiesenstein by H. rust.
With the reach of the grade VII+ had to be maintained until 1952 (Schwager Talweg through H.Rost).
In the 1960s for the first time VIII by F.Eske (1965).
The final step of VIII to IX+ was influenced mainly by B. Arnold.
Also the bouldering in the Elbsandstone has a solid and traditional place, for example the "plum cake variant" created around 1905 by O.P. Smith on the Gansfels in rathen. But also as Arnold used the bouldering as a form of training from the 1960s.
With this form of climbing can be technology, as well as strength and coordination to the good schools.
But since the 1990s the climbing-sportly is stagnant development, though it is enough degree of difficulty to the X and XI.