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Gelbsucht

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Gelbsucht



"Gelbsucht" is located on the „Gelbe-Wand" and was the 2nd route with bolts in the sector The First.
There are some issues; but There's still „The Second'?
Yes, „The Second" was first committed in Saxon style 1989 , so without previous to rope down but with eye-bolts.
The name does not come but from the translation „The second" special nouns „of the moment“.
"The Second" starts right by the large platform and crosses to the left in the flake.
At the time first eyelet over the wall straight and then left to a later second eyelet to the crack to the exit.
The goal for us was 1991 directly to start the yellow wall from below.
At that time it no longer was the eye-bolts, they had fallen the ring of thieves to the victims.
We drilled so 2 bolts under the flake to, put the third bolt new, climbed onto the small roof and ended with a bolt on the top just before the exit.
There were 5 bolts + the bolt on the top and we baptized them to „Gelbsucht".
Also „Gelbsucht" had there are no long and 2011 as clean route revived.
It was thought as a teenager, that with the collapse of the GDR, the climbing rules be changed and erupts in the cliffs of Saxon Switzerland the apparent freedom.
But the opposite was the case of failed socialism to the radical do the protector!
The Routes and Boulder at the time were not rated by us what us for difficulty now in hindsight.
The difficulty of "Gelbsucht" with 9- and now in the CClimbing amounted to E6/6b.
The securing with mobile protection devices dramatically change the character a route.
You can see this then also evident in the assessment of a route.
Initially as the bolts on the key points were that the route was evaluated after the physical demands.
Now that the securing is of course given and consistently, without if and but is waived on eye-bolts/bolts, comes to still the mental difficulty, which is the most crucial change in this type of climbing.
For us, it was a strong conversion at the beginning, as we climbed the routes already with bolts.
But if you now follows the natural line and is forced to give up the fixed securing the personal satisfaction increases immensely.
You can climb a route in the rope maybe loose or the rock height look ridiculous, but then if you get no later than at the entry level, with two three small mobile protection devices to the harness, and inside the starting shot is, then everything looks quite different from.

Sven Scholz, 23.07.2016



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