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The last days in March are numbered. The temperatures are just right to start climbing and take the coat of bouldering. To the first routes "Schischa" is targeted. Just the right start to face the bigger challenges later.

Not far from this route, this edge appears. At the beginning slightly inclined and later vertical. The first glance reveals that this edge must be climbed. From below, this appears smooth and a visibly reasonable protection is unthinkable.

One day later, we (Bubo and I) look at this route in Toprope. A reasonable protection is not to think even after closer inspection. Maximum one Ball Nut (size 2) that would probably not fall, and one Pecker (size 2) that I have no experience with and is used only for technical climbing.

In the evening I tell Sven about this route, a technical climbing with a minimum of protection. At the same moment, we both get the same idea.

I answered this question with "yes".

April 23, 2017

It's time. We are at the stage of the action. Sven and me and our father, who is waiting for us with the dogs in the meantime. At the entry you are a little tense at this moment. We go through the route together in thought. Train by train is saved. I give the necessary information of the security points.

The last grip in the chalk bag and you can start.
Even the start turns out to be a tricky climb, considering the jump area until the first questionable protection is reached.
Then it goes on the edge, first left, then a change to the right to get into the position to put the Pecker.
My eyes are focused and right at the moment I do not know what to do anymore.
First rider, second rider.
Holding rope, spotting ...?
Both seem absurd and futile to me from this height.
All good. The Pecker has found its place and the last moves of the Crux are almost overcome. Now Sven has achieved the first reasonable protection. Several moments of tension are now gone, but until the exit I remain focused.
You're only up when you make it.

The reward is the first ascent of "Kuratel" in Flash.  

Video: Sven Scholz
Text: Michael Scholz, 25.05.2018

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