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First reloaded

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"The First" was the first sportclimbingroute with bolts in the sector The First.
Perhaps the first in the Bahratal at all.
The downhill tilting block is about 12 m high, overhanging and the rock structure is strongly indicated.
Bahratal rock(Labiatursandstone, very well suited for millstones of all kinds) is the hardest in the Elbsandstone.
To secure the route, there were 4 bolts and a bolt on the top.
The route character resembles a classic tour in the Frankenjura, short, strong, forearm-heavy and beautiful.
"The First" there are of course no long had.
The reason is that the Saxon climbing rules that climbing is allowed only on towers and not on walls.
As there are here in the Elbsandstone also human "Make only their work", were points out, the bolts is removed or destroyed.
The drill and remove the route began as 1990 and ended around 1997, with a constant change.
A "reload" for "The First" there was then in the spring of 2011, when we again came back after a climbing trip from the UK.
This time we visited the Grit, southwest of Sheffield.
It is one and perhaps the only real traditional climbing area of Earth.
The sandstone is very hard, the structure is similar to the us, and the rocks are not as high.
The average rock height is 8-20 m, min. 6 m and up to 30 m.
Bouldering and clean climbing is thus also fluently into each other.
Climbing is simply uncompromising only with mobile protection.
And there was also the idea to try a "reload" in the Bahratal.
We set you not only on blocks, because some end in the wall..
With the idea of an extension up to the wall exit as a destination in the CClimbing style, there is also a new and very interesting way to the climb.
In any case, it is an informative, exciting and extreme adventure.



Sven Scholz, 16.06.2016



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