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Mannen-Idee

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If you do not live as you think, you begin to think as you live”
Raoul Hedebouw (2o17)



In the Elbe Sandstone Mountains the zoning activity seems to be in the final stages.
Not because of the active people; Never before has the multitude of experts been so numerous and capable. No, their thirst for action simply does not find new territory; The field is accurately planted, nothing is more to do for the young generation. It seems as if the urgent offspring are condemned to follow from the beaten tracks of his predecessors henceforth. Yes, I know, most of them have always done that, but those who have reached the peak level through diligence and talent, come to a deserted table with a hungry stomach. If you look closely, you will still find some crumbs. Inconspicuous, but we want to pick her on the paper.

First of all, there are the climbing routes we already have - known, but if you go through them under new conditions, a new experience. Furthermore, there are the few significant peaks, that is, which in the older editions of our climbing guidebook in part under "A-b-o-u-t-h-e-r-e" is not at all. Then we do not want to forget the massifs that stand unnoticed in the forest, and finally back to the right summit: There is still a lot going on, you only need to grab hammer and hook.

Now in turn. First to the question: How can one increase the sportive value of repetitive inspections? The first ascent of the Fledermausweg on the Sommerwand - to give an example - proceeded as follows: I climbed to the first ring, picked up the second there, climbed on to a sling and rested in her seat, before I went on to the second ring. There, the entire roped party assembled to transport me through a double construction into a hand crack that led to the summit. At first, the breather in the sling is embarrassing because it proves that there are limits to my strength. I can now strive to increase my endurance and climb from first to second ring without rest. Undoubtedly, such a passage gives more satisfaction and more climbing enjoyment, because it flows without stoppage, aesthetically and rationally. I can now increase this joy by passing the first ring, looking at it as a one-hundred-percent sling. Up to the second ring you need about 20 meters of rope, that means: cable practically zero, communication is perfect - so why do I pick up the first ring? Out of habit. After all, the circus arts of the double construction site bother me, and I try to get by with simple construction or even without building. If it succeeds, my technique triumphs, and the way itself has gained much, for I have proved that it is practicable even for twosome ropes.

Surely it is for anyone who enjoys their own ways, sexy to decide on which bolt he pass, on which he will catch up. In addition, the thing still has practical value. Anyone who can do without resting in the sling avoids the danger of flying down with the noose and a thin spike or a puny hourglass. Anyone who tries to get through building sites without building builds their own technique, without fear or risk, because where there is a construction site, the bolt is not far away. Anyone who gets out far, passes bolts, will find his way quickly in the high mountains, where there are whole pitches between the stands. In addition, a fall can be trapped much more securely on a rope that passes through a bolt than on one that transmits the jerk unabated to our shoulders.

Point two, the "about it". An active troop, Dietmar Heinicke and his men, have brought these towers, which until now have been hidden away in the undergrowth, into the public eye - development downwards. But who will climb the crumb tower when a cake tower stands beside it? What this offers, offers this long. The "above" are not tasks, they hold no secret that was worth to be aired, even their low altitude - their main feature - is none.  

And the massive? Development in the breadth. It is clear that one can still make many great routes along the Massif, but the suspicion is obvious that this will not become anything more than an equivalent to the summit book has been created for the massifs. Yes, the book as a driving force, this time the book of great deeds. How else can I explain that around the Hohen Torstein are always concocted new climbs, which are all massive climbing and low blood, while a stone's throw away the base of the bookless Müllerstein with fantastic walls breaks off, which nobody cares about? When I climb the Hohen Torstein, I often go back from the large tree-lined terrace, renouncing the broken superstructure and the summit book, which can not enrich the experience of my climbing tour. On the Müllerstein, however, in 1960, when I had completed a new route through its solid foundation, I missed the book. And that is why: Without a book no fame, without glory no re-oathing, without this no recognition, no criticism, no sense. A path that no one climbs is like a book nobody reads - meaningless effort. Sooner or later, wallpapers will be the starting point for massive climbing.

Now to hail, to respond to the song of praise in the April number, whose one stanza says I always dream of it. Yes, I think it is time to take bolts and ladders to Switzerland. Everyone knows that there are rocks that are impassable without artificial climbing aids - why should they do without them? If new principles make it possible to nail only where there is absolutely no other way, there is absolutely no risk that our climbing level may drop. A few years ago climbers of the special class attacked the eastern wall of the Basteischluchtturm, they got stuck five meters below the summit. Some piton would suffice, and we would be richer by a new, big, and certainly difficult climb. And should the improbable thing ever come true, that someone will come up without these piton, then the piton will be pulled, as the rings of the firstcomers at the Märchenturm were drawn; nobody will talk more about piton, as no one on the Alter Weg talks about the Märchenturm of support. In these piton tours, we would learn to use the tools of the modern alpinist, which is not a dull or even undemanding activity. We would gain new territory with them for the experts of today and tomorrow and a new field of activity for the large, ever-growing army of active members.

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The team, 21.05.2018



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